Narrow the front for push, widen the front for loose. It’s tough teaching an old dog almost 60 new tricks, but I feel like I’m in the window now and I’m having fun with this new challenge. I realize I should never have to go to full lock while racing, but still it seems to me that the steering shouldn’t even be capable of doing this if it’s set up right. Scale it with out any additional weight. I’m finally getting someplace! For me, playing with tread widths, as long as cross and left percentages were right, could solve push and loose problems.
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Narrow the front for push, widen the front for loose.
I don’t mean to sound argumentative about it, but again that doesn’t seem right to me. Keep splitting the weight high and low on the seat as well.
I’ve still got a lot to learn and I welcome all opinions. I don’t like mounting weights on the frame rail tabs or by adding frame rail weight clamps. You can stop placing it up front. Put the weight lower. In a PM with Bergh, he gave me couote very good explanation of the effects of ackerman going through a turn, so now I’m rethinking this moddm going to do some more experimenting with it. I still need a little more chassis tweaking to suit my style, but at least I’m in the window now.
Then mount the rest of the lead like I stated above to get your front weight at the desired percentage. Originally Posted by 01ron. Set your camber at If I put the tie rods in the front holes on the spindles it doesn’t do this when turning, and it seems cyote be able to turn a tighter corner with the same amount of steering input. After going to the track yesterday it is working way better than it was.
Feel free to PM with ccoyote more questions.
If you see the nose weight is already where it needs to be, then keep stacking the weight on the seat if you can. Location on the floor pan was dependent on the desired front weight. When you have 50 lbs of lead to install, we put modej on the seat but mid way up instead of as high as you can mount it. Scale it with out any additional weight.
2018 Coyote XP Kart Chassis
The YLC’s seem to give up pretty quickly with that much nose weight. Join Date Oct Location iowa Posts 6, My biggest problem seems to be that I have to add about 50 pounds to make the weight class.
It’s tough teaching an old dog almost 60 new tricks, but I feel like I’m in the window now and I’m having fun with this new challenge. I found actually that adjusting the front width would solve a lot of the push and loose problems. I’m finally getting someplace! Keep in mind you may need to adjust the camber a little bit to really get the weight percentages dialed in.
XP | Coyote Racing Chassis
From that point, start adding lead 2 5lb pucks at a time. All times are GMT There’s been a lot of advancements since then!
As long as you are with in 5 lbs difference in weight between the LF and the RF while keeping the percentages as close to 42F 50L 50X as possible the kart should drive a lot better.
I like to keep it simple, after all, the front is connected to the back. Originally Posted by Brettm Thanks Brett, I appreciate that.
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I seem to find that unless you are on really hard tires like vega reds or something similar, the limit on the nose weight is Get the kart to scale to the numbers mentioned previously.
I’m having a hard time convincing myself that’s the way it should work.
They will do that with Ackerman steering.